Beziers – Nimes – Clermont-Ferrand 3.8.25

TGV 560 Beziers 3.8.25
TGV 560 Beziers 3.8.25

A taxi takes me back to the station and here I have a real problem with SNCF.  If you close the toilets because you are seeking to make station improvements then at least advertise the existence and location of the replacements.  I understand that they might not have the same capacity but some travellers need those facilities.  Not a single sign that I could see explaining where the temporary toilets might be.  Luckily a member of staff was able to direct me – and she was only there looking for a passenger in need of assistance whom she could not find.

When planning the trip I paid little interest in the first trip today as I just needed to get from one branch line to the other branch line which commences at Nimes.  So a TGV is great and I had no idea that the line runs almost along the edge of the Mediterranean between Adge and Sete with the Med on one side and the Etang de Thau on the other.  In bright sunshine.  A lovely trip.  At one station we wait for a long time – but we are on time so it is built into the timetable, presumably for connections.  At one station our departure has been announced after about 5 minutes and two people opposite realise they should have got off the train and make a rush for the door –  they did not return so I assume disembarked.

Nimes Arena 3.8.25
Nimes Arena 3.8.25

In Nimes I have time to kill and therefore walk up Avenue Fuecheres which is tree lined and leads towards the older part of the town – dragging my case however makes it a relatively slow journey.  At the top of the Avenue I find a Roman Arena – which I am advised is the most complete one in existence – I merely look at the outside .  I return to close to the station and have lunch as I know getting a meal later in Clermont-Ferrand could well be difficult.  The highlight is a proper steak tartare – which was excellent.

Steak Tartare Nimes 3.8.25
Steak Tartare Nimes 3.8.25

Then the cool of the station before the train appears on the display boards, picking up some food for dinner before we depart.  Now I have to admit that I have a sneaking suspicion that I covered this line, southbound, on a night sleeper in 1976 on my Interrail – but as it was in the dark I did not see the scenery and so I will consider it a first traverse.

Scenery 3.8.25
Scenery 3.8.25

This is known as la Ligne des Cevennes and it snakes north joining the line out of Clermont-Ferrand I used yesterday at Arvant.  The unit is bi-mode but runs in diesel at all times (there is a short distance at each end which is electrified).  The distance is around 148 miles and takes 4 and a half hours so around 33 mph today.  Based on what I saw I thought the gorges and similar were more attractive than yesterday.  But perhaps some of the time I was on the right side of the train today!

Interesting ticket check on this journey – and implies a potential problem.  Obviously we are eventually in a remote area but we have not gone that far when the tickets are checked.  I now find that the barcode is NOT on the phone itself.  I go through the menu items (there should be a single link to the current ticket in the app) and it will not display.  The guard is understanding and eventually enough of a signal becomes available and the ticket displays.  It strikes me that the app creators have not thought this through.  Tickets in the UK are delivered as similar barcodes in pdf format and can be held on the phone locally without the need to access a remote server – travelling across Europe I would have expected something similar as being recognised as essential given how remote some lines must be.

84699 Clermont-Ferrand 3.8.25
84699 Clermont-Ferrand 3.8.25

Motive power between Nimes and Clermont-Ferrand was 84699 which is a dual mode unit but ran entirely under diesel power – even when overhead power was available throughout the journey.  Alstom Coradia family with 242 units in service starting in 2013.  They are widespread across France providing a decent ride – although today we did not experience much in the way of high speed – as the line has a lot of gradients and curves.

Arriving in Clermont-Ferrand there was an ancient diesel at an adjacent platform which was photographed – but precisely what it was doing I am unsure.  I then retreated to my hotel, booked in with a cup of coffee and I find that Jackie has been watching the soaps since she returned.  I now have great difficulty getting the Synology Drive to sync – the phone seems to work but the ipad – which is what I would like to use for the larger screen simply will not sync properly.  So annoying.

Clermont-Ferrand – Beziers 2.8.25

73693 Clermont-Ferrand 2.8.25
73693 Clermont-Ferrand 2.8.25

After the induced panic of yesterday morning today was expected to be a relative oasis of calm – and in hindsight in most respects it was.  However I had forgotten that SNCF have a devilish trick up their sleeves.  They might call it a through train with a single reporting number and no connections but (and we have experienced this before in Corsica) it means nothing of the sort.

However before we get into that I have a continental breakfast and then have about three hours to kill so I go and sit on Voie H of Clermont-Ferrand station.  I swear that at a station which has 9 platforms not a single train moved for at least 45 minutes at one stage during my wait – proving that there is huge capacity which simply does not exist on our railways.  I cannot think of a 9 platform station in the UK which would see no movement for nearly an hour.  I eat some lunch before my train is announced.

I know the line over the Central Massif (la ligne de l’Aubrac) is electrified so I am a little bemused when a diesel is the nominated train this morning at Clermont-Ferrand.  It is heavily loaded (more or less full – partly due to it being the holiday season I suppose) and we proceed to Neussargues.  Where we are all dumped out of the train onto the platform to await a train.  Our train changes its destination from Beziers to Aurillac (another line which deserves a visit).  Then a diesel pootles in from Aurillac, presumably heading for Clermont-Ferrand.

27895 Neussargues 2.8.25
27895 Neussargues 2.8.25

Finally just in time our electric train trundles up the platform and there is a mad rush to the few doors.  We scramble onboard, after just about everyone else gets off (because they do not want to make a return journey).  Our nice electric surges off up-hill and I assume that the two diesel trains then head off to their destinations.  Oddly the guard we had from Clermont-Ferrand remains with us for a large part of the journey.  After checking my ticket earlier she and another passenger ensured I understood the need to change train at Neussargues – although of course it is theoretically a “through” train.

This line is known as either La Ligne d’Aubrac or La Ligne des Causses  and the point of this trip is the scenic outlook.  From Clermont-Ferrand to Neussargues it is mainly heavily wooded with river crossings passed far too rapidly to capture.  Climbing to Neussargues my ears might have popped once but leaving the latter I think they then popped twice in rapid succession.  The only seat I could find is facing backwards on the right side of the train and certainly for the hour after the change of train the wonderful landscapes are on the other side of the train.   So I might have to go this way again.  There are a couple of branch lines which deserve a visit in my view.

There are a number of highlights on the trip.  Viaduc de Garabit was designed by Eiffel – but is not really visible from the train and not from the seat I had.  A little later we pass close to Roquefort but bringing cheese back from France is not allowed at present.  Finally we pass under the Millau viaduct which is an architectural wonder.  Millau is also notable as a point where many of my fellow travellers leave the train – including the guard.  Thereafter the train is largely empty.  I suspect that the subsequent stations can be reached more speedily by the less direct routes.  I am not sure anyone manages the entire trip with me.

Scenic route 2.8.25
Scenic route 2.8.25

By road it is 165 miles and I assume similar by rail.  However it is 6 and a half hours – which is about 24 miles per hour.  So it is a long slog.  Of course there are numerous stops – but speeds are limited by curvature and gradients.  However given that at least 2/3 of it from Clermont-Ferrand to Millau was largely full I am surprised that it is felt one train a day is adequate.

Viaduc de Millau 2.8.25
Viaduc de Millau 2.8.25

Some years ago we stayed in Carcassone and drove over the Viaduc de Millau as well as going across countryside to look at it.  Today I managed to travel underneath it – the railway was here first.  The service then passes through Roquefort although with only a single train a day it is not possible to leave the train and buy some.

Beziers is the end of the line for me and I had already decided that as the hotel is not immediately adjacent to the station that a taxi would be a good idea.  As it turns out the town has something of a very large hill.  No comments on the hotel as that was clearly a mistake.

Sunset Beziers 2.8.25
Sunset Beziers 2.8.25

I did however get some lovely shots of the sunset after dinner.