Every so often I go to London – in recent years there seems to have been new infrastructure to visit with trips along the Elizabeth Line, the overground extension to Barking Riverside, underground extension to Nine Elms and the new route through Bank where the narrow platform has been abandoned to enable greater capacity (although with Working From Home it may be many years before it is needed).
Today is a little different and my main aim is to travel on Mail Rail – the remnant of the railway that used to run from Paddington in the West to Whitechapel in the East to enable mail to be moved around without adding to London’s traffic.
Pneumatic Car
Among the exhibits is a remnant of a much earlier pneumatic railway with a car from that line which ran between 1863 and 1874 – although with limited success – which has been found in recent times. A lost railway and one of which I was unaware.
The Mail Rail train completes a loop around the remaining network of lines under Mount Pleasant which was a major sorting office with traffic coming from the connected main line rail companies and then rerouted back to the termini for despatch to their destination. Before my trip I had not found a map of the route (so with thanks to Dave Cross) his blog has a map and I would concur that the trip operated around something that felt like that layout.
Being a single traveller I was given a “compartment” to myself at the very rear of the train so could not see along the line – although being underground there is not a lot to see – but then originally passengers were not carried. The train stops at various platforms to enable videos to be played telling the story of the line and how the postal workers moved the mail around between the trains and conveyor belts to platforms or sorting offices and it was pretty continuous with mail volumes so much higher than current levels.
Obligatory view from Blackfriars over the Thames
Having travelled around the line I walked back to Farringdon and caught a Thameslink to Blackfriars and travelled one stop to Monument. Many, many years ago I walked the warren of passages which link Bank and Monument. However since then the Docklands Light Railway has opened and today I wanted to travel on the latter. It is further than I remember – but that could just be my memory!
The DLR has one entry in PSUL and so although I think I have been that way before I travel to Lewisham from Bank to ensure that I cover the curve concerned.
465008 Lewisham
At Lewisham I walk over the the National Rail station and take up residence at the end of platform 1 so that I can photograph the trains as they pass over the crossovers at that end of the station. This enables me to get a decent selection of side shots of the various types operating on SouthEastern. I am highly conscious that I do not have decent side shots of earlier rolling stock showing the underframes – so although there is far less visible detail these days I now should be able to find an example of just about all classes in the photos – one advantage of digital is that there is minimal cost whilst historically every shutter press had a significant cost.
Finally having upset the station staff by my presence (I was ordered away from the end of the platform) I catch a train into Waterloo East. I believe we run to time but it strikes me as very slow as we trundle into London Bridge. Then the peak timetable only offers a half hourly service to Farnborough – which feels frankly like not enough given the way the car park is filling up these days – it is more occupied than it was before the additional deck was put in place and we had a better service then.
Most of my trips are designed around visiting rail routes not previously covered – which in some ways is true of today. However the main attraction today is that at the end of the week the Tilbury – Gravesend ferry is to be withdrawn – and so a day has been devised around that journey.
Back in the latter half of the seventies I had a week commuting to Southend and thought that I had planned the week to cover all possible routes to and from London to what was then the town of Southend and which now has City status. My records (created years later) show that this may not be the case or that my memory is faulty – so the plan ensures the track is covered.
Notes:
Railmiles excludes bus, water and Pier Railway miles
NRT excludes Jubilee line, water, bus and Pier Railway
As before my thanks to Real Time Trains for the material in the links.
Operations on the Day
Sandhurst – Waterloo
I attempt to buy a ticket from the Guard on the GWR service to Guildford. Their ticket machines only issue floppy paper tickets which do not work on TfL gates so as ever a polite refusal. Luckily because of the appalling GWR timetable I have time to go to the ticket office at Guildford. The continuing problem where by a ticket issued at Guildford station (commencing at Sandhurst) does NOT open the ticket gates at Guildford continues. I am sure this is capable of being fixed but obviously we are on NGAD railway once again. Having re-entered the station we have an on time run to Waterloo.
Jubilee Line
Down into the depths of Waterloo and take the Jubilee line to West Ham where I am regularly advised that the lifts are not functioning. There is time to take some photographs of the stock operating through the station. Not much to say about the Jubilee line apart from it being hard to believe that it simply did not exist when I first came to London. Only the National Rail platforms actually appear to have numbers. Entrance to these platforms is at one end – but c2c prefers to park its outbound shorter trains at the far end of the platforms rather than having a shorter car length stop mid-platform.
West Ham to Grays and thence to Tilbury Town
This route is one of those not shown as having been previously traversed on my records and travelling on it today I admit I have no recollection of it. Along much of the route it is closely tracked by the main line to the Continent – and to show how much it is used only one Javelin set passes by! All that infrastructure and not that many obvious trains! My first train terminates in the bay platform at Grays and there is then a wait for the onward service. This line used to carry a more regular service but that now runs via the line through Ockenden.
This wait is marred by a bunch of young men considering it is their right to abuse the security guard adjacent to the ticket gate stating that one (and maybe more) would be travelling without a ticket and the obviously outnumbered security guard having little choice but to give way. They missed the departure of the train from the bay platform so had to cross over to the far side but the shouting and unpleasant behaviour continued. I journey onward to Grays on a train which has arrived from Chafford Hundreds which I shall visit later.
My ticket says “Tilbury Town or Riverside” – the latter station having closed and vanished in the nineties, with no obvious evidence now remaining that it existed. The line has been replaced by a bus service and there is a group of passengers waiting for the bus – some with cases are obviously going to the International Port adjacent to the ferry terminal from where cruise ships depart. The pier for the ferry to Gravesend is pretty basic in comparison. Whilst Real Time Trains shows departure times for the bus to Riverside and the PA announces where to catch the bus the staff at the station seem unaware of the timetable when asked (by another passenger) and I cannot find a timetable at the bus stop. Not helpful. I do not test my ticket being accepted and instead proffer my bus pass which is accepted without question – or any obvious record.
Tilbury Ferry
Tilbury – Gravesend Ferry
Jetstream Tours are the current ferry operator using “Jacob Marley” a 98 person capacity Class IV vessel of catamaran design and smartly transfers the assembled passengers to Gravesend. This moves us smartly across to Gravesend where I remain on board. The passengers are clearly a mix of locals and those travelling for the last time before the service ends and before long we are on the return journey. Uneventful is the best description. I later find that my bus pass would have been valid so someone has made money as I paid £5.50! Once back on the pier head I take some photographs before heading back to the bus – and despite my extended stay I just make it before it sets off on a grand circular tour of the Tilbury area. Not exactly the most desirable area I have visited recently. I have a long wait at Tilbury Town station once reached so it must be lunchtime.
Tilbury Town – Southend Central
A lightly loaded 357 appears for this service and it is largely a pleasant run, much of it Thameside, as we head east to the second destination of the day. It steadily becomes more prosperous as we head through South Essex. Emerging from the station (gates open – no staff visible) there are signs for the seafront and pier and I avoid the new lifts from 2016 on the downward journey – walking down steps is not difficult. Across the road is my planned destination – the Pier and the railway.
The Southend Pier Railway
The track gauge is 3ft and the pier is 1.25 miles long. Those I can see on the pier itself are well wrapped up – so I am taking a return journey (£4). One of the new battery electric units is in use today, the other one is standing spare. These date from 2021 with one of the 1986 diesel trains stored at the pier end allegedly as a “spare” although it cannot see much use. The 1986 and 2021 sets were all built by Severn Lamb. From 1889 to 1978 it operated as a 3′ 6″ gauge electric railway and was then closed until 1986 when it re-opened with the diesel sets following rebuilding.
There are two platforms at the land end (one housing the spare battery electric unit) and a passing place half way along the pier with two platforms at the sea end (one housing the spare diesel set).
A half hourly service was running on the day of my visit and this seems to apply apart from the busiest days. The journey takes about 8 – 10 minutes and so there is only about 5 minutes before the service returns on the quarter hour.
Southend Central – West Ham
I take the new lifts to the town level before wandering back to the station. It is many years since I last visited Southend and like many seaside towns I do not get the feeling it has improved in the interim. Southend Central station platform roofs look like they need attention and the (now) City looks generally depressed. On my return I need to find my ticket as the gateline is now staffed.
My return train is waiting in the bay platform and it retraces my earlier journey as far as Tilbury Town before taking the line through Chafford Hundreds – opened in May 1995 to serve the extensive local housing and Lakeside shopping centre. It is single track on this section and it is my belief that this is likely to have been my first coverage of the line as it was for a while an Upminster – Grays shuttle, calling at the only station, Ockenden and I do not think it featured in my travels. So new track I believe. In 2022/2023, Chafford Hundred Lakeside had 2,127,970 entries and exits, making it the 222nd most used station in Great Britain. This makes it the busiest single platform station in the UK beating Windsor and Eton Central (1,580,166). With thanks to Railway Data Centre for providing easy access to these numbers.
At West Ham I do not hang around – straight to the Jubilee and onto Waterloo station.
Waterloo – Sandhurst
I just miss the 16:45 departure – I am at the gateline as the train gets the route. So I can snaffle a coffee with the 17:00 is at the adjacent platform and get on board and get comfortable thinking that this last part of the journey will be straightforward and with no worries. Departure time comes and we don’t. The guard comes on the PA. Apparently a member of train crew – namely himself – was on the wrong platform. So a minor mistake is likely to ruin today’s excellent timekeeping.
When we do get underway it is far from the usual whoosh out of Waterloo and running is sedate for some minutes with further time lost. Once we get out of the canyon of buildings along the line it is possible to get a data signal and so I can check train running – and eventually identify that for some reason the service from Redhill is running late, so unless we lose a lot of time the connection will hold. We recover a little of the time lost and once at Guildford the late running train to Reading is confirmed.
Home is reached ten minutes or so late – but much better than my excursion a couple of months ago.
Costs / Ticket Checks
I was uncertain as to running times for the bus/ferry combination so bought a return ticket to Tilbury (£26.75) and from Tilbury to Southend (£7.65) which would have been cheaper as a single ticket. I could have saved £5.50 on the ferry and the only other item was £4 (concession) on the Pier Railway. The rail expenditure was therefore 18.9p per mile – not quite as cheap as other trips.
The only attempt at a ticket check was on the first train where I stopped the guard to try and buy a ticket – he was not seriously checking tickets. Gates at Southend were open on arrival. At Tilbury Town the gateline was working as it was at Waterloo. Only Guildford station gates refused to work for the ticket and this is a long standing nuisance.
Rolling Stock
165 on GWR service, 444 on Portsmouth line, 357 on the c2c services. 720s were seen on the c2c lines but none presented for travel on the designated services. The 357 fleet started entering service between 1999 and 2002 so most of them are in good condition. The 357 are part of the Electrostar fleet and so comparable to similar units elsewhere on the network. Nothing unusual.
Summary
The day worked well – all objectives achieved and return home almost on time without serious concerns.
A visit was made to Tywyn and the Talyllyn Railway on 12 June 2014 specifically to ride on the Victorian Train, a special operation allowing passengers to travel on the original TR (and other) coaches. It is a blisteringly hot day and it will probably turn out that this is summer for the year! £25 each but it is not a simple return trip today.
Many years since my last visit – and the station buildings have undergone a significant extension – vertically upwards – since then. Sympathetically done this has provided additional office space and allowed extension of the cafe area and shop which occupy the ground floor. This rebuilding took place in 2003/4. Passenger numbers reached around 100k in 1973 but the last 30 years has seen many other railways open and now about 45k are carried each year.
Once on the platform we meet our train of the day headed by No 2 Dolgoch which was built in 1866 by Fletcher, Jennings & Co. The coaches in use on the Victorian train were TR nos 2, 3, 4 and 5 – the brake van containing the ticket window from where tickets were sold in the early years of the preservation era. All vehicles date from 1866/7 with no 4 coming from the Lancaster Wagon Co, the others from Brown, Marshalls and Co. Also in the formation were a Corris Railway third, numbered 8 when on the CR, but is now Talyllyn number 17 and Glyn Valley Tramway no 14 of 1892.
There is a warm staff welcome at Tywyn Wharf where one can cross the line without a hi-viz jacket to take a picture on the sunny side. All of the platforms are on the north side of the line and there are no doors on the southern side of the line; so getting a photograph with the sun shining on the locos is never easy. Good patronage but we are encouraged to take seats anywhere in the formation and also to move around at the various stops to try the different coaches (although all are fairly spartan I would suggest).
Our first stop is Rhydyronen where Dolgoch sets back to allow a runpast – and all of the photographers again cross the line (with approval) to obtain decent photographs. Whilst most passengers travel the entire line there is an adjacent caravan and camping park. We continue up the line to Dolgoch Falls station and here we have two special treats. First Dolgoch takes water from the original water source via a pretty basic route (a wooden u shaped channel) from an old water tank. Then Dolgoch sets back twice onto the bridge over the Nant Dolgoch stream to commence a couple of run throughs enabling pictures in the green wooded area.
On my first visit to this line Abergynolwyn was the operating limit as we approach the station we can see No7 “Tom Rolt” waiting for us to clear the line so that the service train can return to to Tywyn. No 7 was built by the railway using parts from another locomotive. However no longer buffer stops here and we continue through to Nant Gwernol. A service provided on this Victorian Train is for a volunteer to join various coaches and to tell us some of the history of the line; in this case pointing out the the incline down to Nant Gwernol village; the links to the Rev Awdry stories many of the early ones being closely linked to the Railway and also stories the former Abergynolwyn catering manageress. A pleasant and welcome variation from a simple train ride. Go and read the Four Little Engines! Our train runs on up to Nant Gwernol, the opening of which in 1976 required an Act of Parliament to allow extension of passenger working beyond Abergynolwyn stipulated in the original legislation. Dolgoch runs round and we then run back to Abergynolwyn where the passengers take lunch. The Ioco and train stand in the loop, away from the platform.
Whilst we are sitting in the sunshine No 6 Douglas passes through Abergynolwyn on the other service train. The loco has been with the Talyllyn since 1954 but dates from 1918, built by Andrew Barclay and fitted with a new boiler in 1995.
Once the service train has gone our driver consults on sequence of moves required at Abergynolwyn as it would appear he has not worked this before (I think this was the first or second run of 2014 for the Victorian Train). Eventually Dolgoch runs round the train but it remains in the loop. The crew of 3 (there is a trainee given instructions on the crew operated ground frame) finally get a cold toasted sandwich which they had ordered on arrival!
Douglas returns from Nant Gwernol with the service train and stables in the loop at the western end of the platform to enable the Victorian train to pull into the eastern end of the platform and we rejoin the train again moving around as before. Our special train heads for Nant Gwernol again (I said earlier this was not a simple return journey) whilst the service train returns to Tywyn.
At Nant Gwernol Dolgoch runs round and then takes the train back to Abergynolwyn.
A major development since my last visit was opened in May 2013 by Timothy West and Prunella Scales. This is “The Guest House” a carriage storage facility at Quarry Siding made possible by a bequest by a former driver, Phil Guest who has served on the line from 1969 until his passing in 2008. Like many other railways storing all stock in a dry location had not been possible and this additional facility will mean looking after the Victorian and other stock will be much easier in the future.
Our journey back to Tywyn is interrupted by a stop at Brynglas for a final photo opportunity before we pass down the rest of the line. Unlike at least one of my earlier visits to the line our progress is not delayed by a trespassing sheep. I can remember one trip being at a very slow pace as the sheep progressed and could not be encouraged off of the line and no gap could be found for the sheep to return to the adjacent field.
The attraction at Tywyn Wharf is no longer the train but a scone plus jam and cream, a cup of tea and some cake.
On the WHR traffic was being confidently handled by 138 &143 the NGG16 2-6-2+2-6-2T Garratt locos bought from the South Africa Railways to operate the line in 1997 Built by Beyer Peacock in 1958, 143 was the last Garratt narrow gauge loco built by Beyer Peacock being delivered in 1958. The WHR is also completely coal fired again.
The Welsh Highland Railway is running a more intensive service towards the end of the week but at the point we travelled the line there were two round trips, one from each end. Later in the week this extended to 2 1/2 round trips with the locos starting at the other end each day.
In many respects this is a “new” railway, travelling from Porthmadog it follows the alignment of the old line through to Dinas it is fair to say that the line was rebuilt from nothing.
The line runs out of Porthmadog in the opposite direction to the Ffestiniog generally heading north. There is a flat crossing with the National Rail line (currently non-operational due to the closure of Pont Brivet) and we pass the other Welsh Highland – the WH Heritage Railway which lies on the left hand side passing their terminus at Pen-y-mount. On this section we bowl along at a respectable speed as the line is either level or only a very slight gradient, stopping at Pont Croesor. This continues until we take a sharp left turn at what was Croesor Junction, the old Croesor Tramway continuing ahead. Afon Glaslyn is alongside to the left and shortly before Nantmor Halt we commence a more serious climbing passing through the Aberglaslyn tunnels.
This is the most scenically attractive section of the route as we are in the Pass of Aberglaslyn with rails, road and river close together. Between the railway and river is a restored pathway with many walkers and photographers observing our progress. Through Goat Tunnel and into Beddgelert station for a welcome breather. We are now at the bottom of a continuous climb at around 1 in 50. This section of the route is not easy as twice we turn back on ourselves as we climb – with sharp curves as well, once before Meillionen and once after. Just before the summit at 648ft above sea level there is a good view of Snowdon – as usual the top is lost in the clouds.
We pause at Rhy Ddu which was the terminus from Caernarfon for some time until the line was opened. It is a lot easier for the locomotive and crew now. Today we are behind No 138 which has performed well on the climb. We pass 143 which is operating the other service. Rather than the heavily wooded countryside we passed through earlier this is rather more bleak as we look at the lower slopes of Snowdon but as descend the landscape softens. Dinas houses the locomotive and carriage works for the West Highland Railway and there are clearly significant facilities here as we pass the Locomotive shed as we run into the station and then pass the carriage shed as we leave, the loco having taken on coal loaded by a mechanical digger.
The original Welsh Highland ended at Dinas with a connection into the Caernarfon to Afon Wen branch. The new railway however has adopted the old track bed and we continue onwards into Caernarfon coming to a rest at the temporary station almost in the shadow of the walls of the Castle. Indeed it has now been announced that a more permanent station is to be built to replace the temporary structure. Dinas to Caernarfon had been converted to a cycle path after closure of the rail line and some re-alignment of the latter has allowed the rail route to be re-instated.
There is one drawback to this one train each way timetable – we only just about have time to consume lunch in a pub before returning and no time to explore Caernarfon. Oddly I have been to the castle before – and there is not a lot to it. A return to be arranged once that new station is built. Even better if the line is extended through the tunnel under the town and there is continuing talk that for £40m a narrow gauge line could run to Bangor along the route of the standard gauge line closed in 1970.
The return working is even better. The clouds have lifted and the sun is shining and it is now possible to see the summit of Snowdon from the train. Pity we did not plan a day out visiting it!
We took a week’s holiday staying in Porthmadog allowed ongoing observation of both FR & WHR between 6 and 13 June 2014. We actually travelled over the entire Ffestiniog line on Saturday 7 June 2014.
The timetable has four daily return trips to Blaenau Festiniog requiring the two Boston Lodge built locos using the principles of Fairlie’s patent: No 12, David Lloyd George (built in 1992) and No 11, Earl of Merioneth (built in 1979) to complete two return trips. The latter is in longstanding green livery whilst the former is in all over primer grey including the normally polished domes which looks a little odd. However it has only recently returned to use after a heavy overhaul which included new power bogies (which have a required a £200k investment) so the grey is probably temporary. It has also been converted to coal firing from oil burning and has acquired taller chimneys. The railway determined some years ago that oil firing was no longer cost effective and so the locos are being converted back to coal firing on overhaul. The railway is now dependent on the Double Fairlies to operate the heavier services which dominate on the line.
Other locos were noted (possibly in steam) when passing Boston Lodge but identification proved impossible. Shunting at Porthmadog was sometimes done by the service locomotives but later in the week the diesel Vale of Ffestiniog was seen and heard.
The most notable recent change at Portmadog is the widening of the Cob to provide room both for a new platform 2 which is used by the WHR trains and for a run round loop which is between the new platform and the road. So the end of the Cob close to Porthmadog is now much wider and means that operating WHR is easier. A detailed explanation of the works can be found here: http://www.whrsoc.org.uk/WHRProject/maintain/maintain-harbour2.html
On my previous visits to Porthmadog it always seemed to be a permanent traffic jam but the opening of a bypass for through traffic on the A487 in October 2011 has not only made it a nicer town to visit but also allowed the WHR to cross the road as it leaves Porthmadog Harbour station in a northerly direction but the crossing is completely ungated, merely protected by flashing lights and alarms.
Our first trip was on the Ffestiniog using the First Class coach / Observation car 100. Comfortable and relatively new (built in 2007). Observing a later train leaving Porthmadog it is surprising how far the steam trail from the locomotive can be seen as it heads towards first Boston Lodge and then Minfordd. If staying in Porthmadog why not use the train to Minfordd and then walk to Portmeirion? Eat in Castell Deudraeth at lunchtime and they give you free entry into the village for the afternoon.
The main climb is on the section to Tan-y-bwlch and the line runs through heavily wooded hillsides – the earlier justification of oil firing being to avoid starting fires can be understood. The heavy storms of recent years can be seen at the moment to have uprooted many trees alongside the route, in addition to which the Forestry Commission is undertaking a lot of logging activity removing mature trees and replanting. I caught my first Ffestiniog train at Tan-y-Bwlch many years ago, having walked up from the Oakeley Arms at Maentwrog – it does not look very far on the map but is quite an uphill slog! Being 1975 my journey then was odd – a return to Dduallt and then single to Porthmadog.
The current trip carries onwards to Dduallt but now carries on around the spiral and the Deviation picking up the the original alignment at the top of the Tanygrisiau Reservoir at Tanygrisiau station. A huge surprise to me was the line sweeping away majestically to the left as we pass through Glanypwll. Part of the line towards Dinas was relaid in 1997 which allows access via another reverse into the new carriage shed. Immediately after the junction for that there is a civil engineers yard and the original engine shed on the left has been reroofed and enlarged.
Our service trains now run to the joint station with National Rail which commenced operation on 25 May 1982.
No National connecting train awaits at Blaenau! After a needed break for the driver, fireman and guard the engine (Earl of Merinoeth) runs round the 8 coaches and we are ready for the return journey which proceeds with slightly less firing activity as we are heading downhill. Originally the downhill workings would have been gravity powered for the slate wagons and the railway does still demonstrate this from time to time.
